Thursday, July 02, 2015

Last Hurrah in Lavaud!

Thursday 6/25/15
Our last day/night in Lavaud was fabulous. Gretchen and I took a mid-morning walk together and had an overdue sisterly chitter. We walked past Pomme and Couscous the happy donkeys, strolled along a little dirt road that John and I had been frequenting that surrounds a little pond, then took a blacktop road up a steep incline to get some good exercise while also avoiding the long grasses that earned poor John a fat tick (that he dubbed "Frenchie") on his leg that and imbedded itself right good. It was a hot, hot day so we lounged in the shade, enjoying lunch under the shade of the little tree out back that seems to bleed these tiny little bugs that forced me and Gretchen into the shower (separately) because they were so itchy and horrible. John and I snuck away for a romantic walkies together before the festivities began. 











Francine began preparations for a huge feast of meats, breads, cheeses, salad and fruits. The guests ended up being delayed several hours because of some protests going on in Paris that brought train traffic to a halt. We ended up going ahead and eating supper but saved the guests food to eat once they finally arrived, which I think was around 10:30. The guests were Massimo, his wife Lily, son Gautier, his dog Kiki and girlfriend Liliu. Fiona and Liliu made friends instantly and they chatted all night about French culture and cute pets, helping each other with French and English language questions. Fiona has been an unbelievably good sport during so many adult convos that go on and on, and a more mature 11-year-old you could not find. (She and I have been sneaking some time together to play Uno, Mega Run, and draw pictures together on a computer app called Paper. She is creating some awesome art!)



















The party went quite late and got quite boisterous, and Francine's attempts at hiding any new liquor bottles that she knew would be cracked and drained by the night's end went awry when Dad came sniffing around the kitchen. He must know of her hiding spots! Us hens started brewing loads of coffee and serving water, and had nice chats as we did the massive load of dishes. Suddenly we could hear things mellow into a hush, and the sound of Dylan's lone voice singing could be heard. We came out to hear him sing a tear-jerking rendition of The Parting Glass, and everyone lifted a glass a made a silent toast to the still beauty of the moment. Some intensely private and healing words were said between my dad, sister and me that were many years overdo. Silent tears were shed, and for a short time, I felt an envelope of caring protection from my dad that I have never experienced. No one thing can heal years of being torn, but it was powerful and as close to whole as this broken family will probably get. I feel that my dad let us into a part of him that only he knows, and his revealing this is his way of finally making a true connection with his kids. 










Thursday, June 25, 2015

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

La Rochelle!

Wednesday 6/24/15
We got up early Wednesday and drove the two hour journey to La Rochelle, the city where Francine was born and raised. It was a bustling, fishing town with tons of shops and tourists. We walked the stony streets peeking in windows of the many, many shops on winding streets in a city centre that reminded me a bit of San Francisco. 











































We went down a sleepy street away from the waterfront to find a less touristy place to eat, and Dad found a really nice place that had wonderful outdoor seating and delicious food. I ordered the chicken entreƩ that had white aparagus, mushrooms and a lovely rich sauce and a dessert of cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream, smothered in hot chocolate sauce and sprinkled with sliced almonds. John ordered a unique starter salad with a creamy cheese base, some kind of pesto-looking layer and a bunch of finely sliced vegetables that was incredible, and thought he ordered a fish entreƩ but received the same dinner I did, which he was not sorry about because it was so good. Our French-speaking hosts were at the opposite end of the table when we ordered, and though Fiona speaks French very well, her vocab doesn't yet include the fineries in French cuisine at that level. I was sitting next to Fi and kept asking her what everything on the menu was but she would lean over and say, "I have no idea." I think she is getting a bit bored with having to translate for Aunt Rachie and Uncle John. Gretchen and Dylan have been learning more phrases and are brave in testing them out. I keep recalling all the Norwegian I have been learning, so I have been pronouncing everything incorrectly or forgetting it straight away.












We took a tour of one of two historic towers, climbing the steep stairs to an exhibit that was mostly in French, so I didn't take the time to look at each display, but oggled a cool huge ship in a bottle, then went to take photos from the top of the tower. Here's a cute Schmoopie photo to commemorate that moment :)

 

After the tour, Dad went for a nap in the car and Francine took us around to show us the house she was born and grew up in, and we shopped a bit, and me and Fiona got some adorable glass animals for our respective shadow boxes. We took a brief walk through of a huge church that is being renovated and then made our way back to find Papou (Dad) and head back to the house to prepare for supper. 










Time and space are nebulous at best right now, so please bear with the sparse blogging and lack of details about meals and other minutea that I normally like to include as a sort of writer's scrapbook of our travels. I will say that we are eating better on this trip than any other since most meals are homemade and casual. We have only eaten out a couple of times so far, and though the restaurants have been great, nothing beats a roasted meal of chicken and veggies, salads and bread with cheese and Irish butter. We are very much enjoying the rustic cooking of rural France. 
Love&hugs, R&J